Top 7 Dishwasher Error Codes and What They Actually Mean

Your dishwasher just flashed a code at you. It might be letters, numbers, or some cryptic combination that looks like a WiFi password. Don't worry — these codes are actually pretty logical once you know the system.

Here are the 7 most common dishwasher error codes across major brands, what they mean, and what to do about them.

1. HE or HE1 — Water Heating Error

Translation: "I can't get the water hot enough."

Common causes: Failed heating element, faulty temperature sensor, or the water supply itself isn't hot enough (check your water heater temp).

Quick check: Run your kitchen sink hot water for 2 minutes before starting the dishwasher. If the code goes away, your water heater is set too low — aim for at least 120°F.

2. E1 / IE — Water Inlet Error

Translation: "I'm not getting enough water."

Common causes: Kinked supply hose, clogged inlet valve screen, or the water supply valve is partially closed. (Samsung 1E diagnosis · LG IE diagnosis · Bosch E22 diagnosis)

Quick check: Make sure the supply valve under the sink is fully open. Then check the inlet hose for kinks. If both are fine, the inlet valve filter screen might be clogged with mineral buildup — unscrew the hose from the valve and clean the screen with vinegar.

3. OE / E2 — Drain Error

Translation: "I can't get the water out."

Common causes: Clogged filter, kinked drain hose, blocked garbage disposal connection, or a failed drain pump. (Bosch E24 diagnosis · Bosch E15 diagnosis)

Quick check: Clean the filter at the bottom of the tub. Check the drain hose for kinks. If you have a garbage disposal, make sure the knockout plug has been removed.

4. LC / LE — Leak Detected

Translation: "Something's wet down here that shouldn't be."

Common causes: Condensation in the base pan, loose drain hose, cracked tub, or oversensitive leak sensor.

Quick check: Power off, tilt the dishwasher back, let any base pan water drain, and try again. This clears false alarms about 80% of the time. (See the Samsung LC diagnosis page for a more detailed walkthrough.)

5. E4 / FE — Overflow Error

Translation: "Too much water! Shutting down!"

Common causes: Stuck inlet valve (won't close), faulty water level sensor, or suds from the wrong type of detergent (never use regular dish soap in a dishwasher).

Quick check: If you see suds, someone used the wrong soap. Run a rinse cycle. If no suds and you still get the code, the inlet valve may need replacement.

6. E3 / tE — Temperature Sensor Error

Translation: "I can't read the water temperature."

Common causes: Failed thermistor (temperature sensor), wiring issue, or control board fault.

Quick check: This one usually needs a parts test. The thermistor is a small component that can be tested with a multimeter. At room temperature, most should read around 50kΩ.

7. E5 / HE — Drying Fan or Heating Error

Translation: "I can't dry your dishes properly."

Common causes: Failed drying fan motor, clogged vent, or heating element issue.

Quick check: Listen for the fan during the drying cycle. If you hear nothing, the fan motor may need replacement. If the fan runs but dishes are still wet, increase rinse aid dosage before suspecting a hardware failure.

The Pattern

Notice a theme? Most dishwasher errors boil down to three things: water getting in, water getting hot, and water getting out. If you understand those three systems, you can troubleshoot almost any code.